Brake Pads 2000 3.2 Isuzu Radeo Front and Back

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Question From Guest on how to install a starter on 99 Isuzu rodeo

How do I install starter on a 99 Isuzu rodeo? I took old starter apart to remove

Response From Guest ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ Top Rated Answer

drop the exhause down a few inches.

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Question From fparra on 1998 Isuzu Rodeo V6-transmission

I am trying to check the transmission fluid on my 1998 Isuzu Rodeo V6 (automatic-2WD) but cannot locate the fill plug. The vehicle also does not have a dipstick. Can anyone assist?

Response From dave284 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ Top Rated Answer

Some of these vehicles you have to check at a bolt on side of the trans.

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Question From mperez on 93/92 transmission isuzu rodeo

I have a 1992 isuzu rodeo 3.1 liter which the transmission needs to be replaced. I bought a transmission but its for a 1993 3.2 liter isuzu rodeo will it fit/work in my 1992 rodeo isuzu 3.1 liter? What are my options and what can I do?

Response From Tom Greenleaf ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ Top Rated Answer

The data that shows what exact items are the same is about always at salvage yards. I couldn't guess what of a zillion things could be different or not cross over. Bad beginning that it's a different engine and model year.

You may have to go to a salvage yard with info on both vehicles to know,

T

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts

Question From Guest on 1991 Isuzu Rodeo Fule problem

I have a 1991 Isuzu rodeo and I am having a problem getting fuel into the throttle body the fuel line connecting to the throttle body has pleny of fuel but for some reason it is not entering the throttle body .I can pour fuel in to it directly and the car will run . Could this be a sensor of some type or the computer ? Any help is appreciated.
Thank you Mark

Response From thomas74 ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ Top Rated Answer

sounds like no injection pulse witch means u have to do an injection pulse test

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Is there enough fuel pressure to make it work?

T

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Question From JonCarn on 2002 Isuzu Rodeo Front Hub

The front hub on my 2002 Isuzu Rodeo 4x4 doesn't look anything like the pictures in the manual I have. There is no dust cover that bolts to the hub. The rotor has the lugs and a center shaft nut only. I need to replace the fried bearings but don't see how to remove the hub from the front shaft.
Anybody else seen hubs like this?

Response From nickwarner

This is a unitized bearing/ hub assembly. Take off the brakes and the big nut in the center. Look behind the spindle, should be four bolt heads. Now after you get those out you may have to fight a bit to get the hub out as rust may have set in.

4-Wheel Drive
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
Place the transfer case in 2WD.
Raise and support the front end.
Remove the caliper from the anchor plate and suspend it out of the way.
Remove the rotor.
Loosen the caulking around the front driveshaft nuts. Remove the nuts and discard them.
Remove the 4 hub retaining bolts.
NOTE
If the hub is difficult to remove, install 2 long bolt in the bolt holes and strike them to loosen the hub.

Installation is the reverse of removal. Torque the hub bolts to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm). Use new driveshaft nuts, torquing them to 181 ft. lbs. (245 Nm). Apply new caulking. The caulk should be free of cracks when applied.

Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Front hub-4WD models

Response From JonCarn

Thanks for the information. So I can't replace just the bearings, I have to replace the complete hub, and of course this cost way more and nobody in town stocks them.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

IDK for sure but seems only whole hub assembly is available easily anyway. Still just an order item and follow procedures Nick listed out.

Why both? Are both bad? IMO what kills this stuff is being submerged in water despite being a 4X4 it's not a submarine.

Whole hub doesn't look that hard to do.........
/

$150 +/- depending on source,

T

Response From JonCarn

Both are bad. The car sat for 2 years before I purchased it. What started out as a little fix up project has turned into a nightmare. Got the car for $1500 and was told it had a bad tranny. Turned out the motor and tranny were both fried. Got salvage yard engine and had trans rebuilt. Had to lift the body off the frame to get engine/trans out since I could not rotate the engine to separate the two. Engine runs but I keep getting "random misfire" P0300. Replaced coil packs, ICM, MAP, TPS and still have the problem. Next step is to replace the intake gaskets, but can't get to it because the trans burned up and had to be pulled and rebuilt and now the front hubs wobble and squeak. Control motor for the transfer case stopped working and when I pulled it off I found the magnets for the motor came unglued. One of the screws on the control motor broke and now it leaks oil. Can't find a used motor because nobody wants to sell just the control motor off the transfer case and it is way too expensive from the dealer. And I have been doing all the work myself, I am not a novice at this, I have built many cars over the years, but the Haynes manual I bought is only half right for this model year.
It has been very frustrating and as soon as I get it running right it is going on Craig's List!

Response From nickwarner

Haynes manuals are not worth it. For $27 a year you can get an Alldata subscription for that car. Its the way to go if you do a lot of work on your own car. www.alldatadiy.com is the site.

Response From JonCarn

I have removed all the bolts from the hubs and tried using an old bolt from the back to remove the hub but can only get them to move about 1/8".
Any trick ideas to remove the hubs?

Response From Hammer Time ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆ Top Rated Answer

Either a slide hammer attached to the lug nuts or hit the flange from behind with a heavy hammer.

Response From JonCarn

I finally got them out, took a little heat to break the rust and used an air hammer to rotate enough to hammer the bolt flanges from the back.
I see a seal on the back of the spindle arm that probably should be replaced, but the manual says I need to remove the front differential to remove the front drive shafts. I don't really want to do that and it looks like I can unbolt the lower ball joint and get enough clearance to get to the seals.
I broke one of the anti lock brake rings on the back of the hub and the parts store is telling me this is a dealer item only.
Will this throw a CE light if I don't install the ring now? I now the anti lock will not work right, but I need to drive the car this week and i will have to order the ring.

Response From Hammer Time

I wouldn't worry about the seals. The bearing are already sealed and they basically just keep water out of the splines.

Response From JonCarn

Thanks for the tip. I went to the website and I signed up. The Haynes manual does not mention a lot of little things like the #6 coil pack being different than all the others or that 2002 models do not have cam position sensors. They also tell you to remove both bolts from the caliper when only the bottom one comes out, the top one is actually a pin. I spent 20 minutes last night trying to remove the top caliper bolt and by accident discovered it rotated.
Thanks again.

Brake Pads 2000 3.2 Isuzu Radeo Front and Back

Source: https://www.carjunky.com/isuzu~rodeo~parts.html

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